Cotton jacket for women, with embroidered collar

Unknown artist

Belongs to a complete (presumably daily) costume, with skirt and shawl.\At Hmong / Miao, costumes and jewelry are considered not only clothing to fulfill basic needs, but also as treasured works of art that represent Miao thought and action. They are a measure of the creator's creativity and aesthetics. From the age of six or seven, girls begin needlework, weaving and dyeing. During important days, festivities resemble a fashion show (Yaohua, 1987:14). All kinds of techniques are used to decorate clothes, in motifs that can reflect anything from daily life to local stories and characters. \Silver jewelry contributes to noble appearance and beauty; it is the most important form of adornment. \ÒIn the past, with the help of family, girls would make their own clothes. They wore these during festivals where they could meet boys and possibly marriage partners. Multiple sets were worn on top of each other with lots of silver jewelry to show wealth. In the poorer west, this was mainly done through the hairstyle. Today, cheap copper and nickel alloys are used for crowns and other jewelry. Everyday clothing was not as ornate as festival wear, which also functioned as wedding attire (id.). \After the establishment of the New China in 1949, Miao fashion also adapted with the introduction of new fabrics, chemical dye, and sewing machines. Since the late 20th century, the government set up ethnic tourism, to combat poverty, which initially resulted in a revival of traditional clothing, but later developed into more conspicuous and poorly made clothing (Corrigan calls these 'stage costumes', in Vollmer 2010:189). In the southwest, young people wear trousers with blouses and t-shirts, some with the traditional jacket over them (id. 190).‖ Since the most recent turn of the century, Miao clothing has changed a great deal. Labor became freer in China, and Miao girls can go to school and learn to write and speak Chinese, they continue to live in cities. They no longer learn the textile crafts of their native land. Even older women no longer have time for textiles, they have to work the land and look after their grandchildren. Through television and the internet, other styles of clothing are arriving and becoming popular, which will come at the expense of local clothing (Corrigan, 2010, 194). \The Hmong, often better known by their Chinese name Miao, are one of over fifty minority groups in China. In 1954, the Miao became one of the officially recognized minzu, or minorities, recognizing their traditions and beliefs (Corrigan, in Vollmer, 2010:187).They live across seven southern provinces of China and in countries beyond and have a long history. Hmong textile creativity is world famous. There are more than a hundred different types of Hmong costumes, reflecting all historical changes, natural environment, economic standard and language differences ((Yaohua, 1987:15-17). For example, during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976), local clothing and hair styles were banned by the central government. After Mao's death there was more freedom again. Festivals were organised again where women wore their most beautiful clothes and jewellery. Men continued to wear mainly Chinese or Western clothing (Corrigan, in Vollmer, 2010:189). \、The patterns and (embroidery) motifs used in Miao clothing are a unique record of local history and cultural heritage (myths, legends, and important migration stories); Miao themselves know no written language.、Manufacture】Machinally woven cotton, purchased from Chinese by Miao. The grayish-white cotton lining appears to be self-woven. Other material used is silk, in colored embroidery. Possibly the blue color was obtained with vegetable indigo, possibly it is a synthetic dye. Southwest China is one of the most active indigo dyeing regions. The indigo paste (consisting of several plants) is mixed with lye water (alkaline water), rice wine and other secret ingredients. This mixture remains good for up to one year. Clothing dipped in the dye bath is dried in the open air, causing the color to oxidize. \Fabric with strong luster is preferred. (Corrigan, in Vollmer, 2010:192).