Pronk belt

Unknown artist

The rough life in the steppes ensured that the clothing of, among others, the male Turkmen there was relatively simple. In the cities, slowly but surely, a subtle graduation in clothing developed through the use of different, more precious materials, particularly for coats. This coat is an example of this. The social status of the wearer could be clearly recognised by his jacket, but also by the colour and size of his turban or headgear. There is little male jewellery. The male need for display was expressed, both in the cities and among the Turkmen, in the use of richly ornamented belts, costly saddles and saddle-cloths. Among the male attributes were his weapons. They too often indicated the status of the man. In general, it can be said that the difference in clothing of the urban elite and the Turkmen is mainly reflected in the use of more colorful and costly materials.Typical of male costume in central Asia is that the clothing, regardless of the size of the man, is made according to a pattern. the clothing is sold 'ready-made' at the bazaar. Another feature is that the clothing has no pockets. This results in trinkets, such as toiletries (including snuff holders, nail utensils, etc.), lighters, and small crafted bags being carried on the belt. This applies to both urban and nomadic clothing. another consequence is that pockets were replaced by small bags on the belt. These are often embroidered and each group has its own patterns.Depending on the size of the man, the trousers hang down to the ankles or just below the knees, which is held up by a belt. On this he wears a long shirt. Depending on the season, it can be made of cotton or felt. Rich townspeople often wore leather riding boots with embroidery. \They wore a long coat, chapan, with wide, long sleeves that often fell over the hands. If a man wore more than one chapan, the one on the body was fitted with a belt. The belts of the well-to-do can be embroidered, made of cotton or leather and have a decorated buckle. The belt here belongs to a particularly wealthy man.‖ Simpler people, peasants and nomads tied the chapan, if at all, with a scarf.‖ The material for the chapan varied according to rank. Schwarz writes that the most expensive ones are made of cashmere wool. He also describes emirs and khans wearing velvet chapans, of which this is an example. Sometimes they are embroidered with silver or gold thread. Gold brocade jackets with silk ikat lining, or velvet ikat jackets were reserved for princes and high court officials. The more mundane clothing of them, and the party clothing of the highest classes, were silk or half-silk ikat coats.‖ The common people, peasants, and nomads wore cotton chapans, usually striped.‖ Schoisel consisted of slippers, high-heeled shoes (for both men and women), and for riding there were boots with sturdy heels contained in iron. The slippers as shown here were probably used for indoors in an urban environment, and are of particularly high quality.‖ The only really obvious difference between Turmenians and townspeople was their headgear. The large sheep's wool bonnets of the Turkmen can be characterized as the sign of male tribal dress. Townspeople wore small round hats, often richly embroidered, at home or at work. When they left home, the hat was often wrapped with a cloth to form a turban. The quality of the bonnets often indicated social status. The rich wore bonnets embroidered with gold or silver thread or made of silk. The fact that the bonnet sellers were often in the best places in the centre of the bazaar shows how important they were considered. In earlier times, the pattern gave information about the wearer, but regional classifications have become virtually impossible, especially since the patterns are subject to change. Schwarz writes that gold-embroidered cashmere turbans were worn by the khans, while princes might wear gold brocade. Members of the upper class wore white turbans, the fabric of which was imported from Ebgeland or India; the common people wore colored cotton turbans. Good turbans fabric is still imported from India into Afghanistan.‖ DH, 4/2001