White quechqué mitl with geometric motifs

1941

This quechquémitl is probably woven in a hip loom with cotton and wool. The white part of the quechquémitl consists of gauze: the odd threads of the warp are crossed with the even threads, before the weft is pulled through. This technique contains very complex variations. An important characteristic of gauze fabric is that it is not very dense. Furthermore the shoulders are decorated with geometric motives with wool. The technique used is hilvanado (embroidery).\Huipiles and quechquémitl (there are no good equivalents for either garment in the Dutch language) are the traditional garments par excellence of the Indian woman in Mexico. The huipil is an essentially simple rectangular, sleeveless garment that covers the shoulders and part of the arms and can fall to the hips lengthwise, but elsewhere reaches to the ankles. It expresses many aspects of social life. This also applies to the quechquémitl which is basically more of a shoulder garment. The different huipiles and quechquémitl differ from each other in form and applied weaving and decorative techniques, as well as the size and nature of the decorative patterns and motifs - these elements are often related to the distinct identity of the different ethnic groups. It is interesting to note that in the 20th century the distribution of both garments is virtually non-existent: when a group dresses in the huipil, the quechquémitl is missing and vice versa. In pre-Columbian times this was not the case, and both garments existed side by side and in some cases were even worn on top of each other, as Mixtec codices show.‖ In September 1962, Dr. Irmgard Weitlaner made the following notes about the quechquemitl of Xolotla and Atla, both Nahua villages in Huasteca Poblana:‖ Women from Atla and Xolotla (Nahua) frequently wear quechquemitl of commercial cloth. Also saw several women wearing crotcheted quechquemitl, including figures. Evidently quechquemitl with gauze and seersucker stripes, plus brocaded bands are getting quite scarce. It is said that there is more weaving done in Atla than in Xolotla. [...] In Xolotla they still have a few silk worms growing on guayabos but nobody makes use of them. They formerly used to weave cloth of silk for men's shirts and short pants, and women's quechquemitl.