Cotton shoulder cloth

Unknown artist

Probably this textile was inspired by the Aceh textile (Tillman 1940:7; Niessen 1993:24, fig 15) named 'plang rutha'. However, the arrowhead motif is also found in India (Desai 1987). Jasper observed that the 'plang motif' was known throughout Sumatra (1909:23). In old descriptions, the names 'padang rusa' and 'padang ursa' for this cloth also occur. 'Ursa' is a Toba word for the Indonesian 'rusa' or 'deer' (Sinaga 1994:380). 'Padang rusak' is the name that was used in the Silindung valley at the turn of the 20th century (Jasper and Pirngadie 1912, plate 22 of textile 48-194 in the Tropenmuseum, Amsterdam; Rouffaer 1902:9). Regarding a so-called 'pelang rusa' originating in Silindung, Rouffaer has written that, "if this cloth were silk, instead of coarse cotton, it would be a genuine Aceh fabric" (Rouffaer 1901:11). The whole series of Batak textiles for which the arrowhead motif is characteristic (e.g., 'mangiring', 'padangpadang', 'simpar', 'simancuman', etc.) is probably derived from this cloth type.‖ The 'padang rusak' has plain red side stripes ('sisi') and white selvedge edges ('topi'). The middle band has narrow, alternating red and black stripes. The white iridescent arrowhead motif is usually found in the black stripes. \In this cloth, the arrowheads all point in the same direction. \This cloth was used as a shoulder cloth, sash (Niessen 1993:85, fig. 66), and headdress.‖ The Aceh version of this cloth was made in silk, but this Batak version is woven of cotton thread.‖ Jasper and Pirngadie (1912: 173-175) give a detailed description of the making of the itched arrowhead motif.