MEDIEVAL BUCKLE

1200

An incomplete copper-alloy oval buckle frame with integral plate of Medieval date, c.13th to c.15th century AD. The frame has a width of 22.7mm and length of 18.7mm to the start of the pin hole. The frame has an oval cross-section close to the plate, which becomes 'D' shaped as the frame reaches its widest dimension, and finally flattens out to form a thin oval cross-section along the side where the tip of the now incomplete pin would have rested. This flattened side of the frame is angled to a diagonal profile in relation to the rest of the buckle. 2.5mm into the plate from the inner edge of the buckle frame is a circular pin hole of 3.3mm diameter. The remains of a copper-alloy pin survives wrapped around the pin bar through the pin hole. The pin has an oval cross-section and width of 2.8mm just prior to curving under and up to stop 0.8mm short of butting up against the reverse surface of the pin. The pin has a current incomplete length of 8.5mm ending in a worn and rounded transverse break.Behind the frame the plate starts with what resembles a partial knop on either side creating the appearance of the terminals of an off-set bar. These partial knops are positioned over the pin bar and half of the pin hole giving the plate a width of 14.8mm. Behind the knops the plate has a width of 11.3mm tapering to 8.0mm before expanding to form a circular zone that gives the plate a width of 15.4mm. On both edges of the plate a miniature knop is present before and after this circular zone. Following the circular zone the plate has a width of 6.4mm that tapers to 5.4mm before curving backwards, presumably to form a curving hook of the type seen on similar buckle examples. As the plate starts to curve backwards a transverse break has occurred. Along the centre of the length axis of the plate there are two circular rivet holes, the rivets now missing. The first rivet hole has a diameter of 2.3mm and is located 2.3mm behind the pin hole. The second rivet hole has a diameter of 2.0mm and is positioned at the centre of the circular zone of the plate.Traces of the gilt survive on the upper surface of the plate. These traces are located as a thin linear border along both edges of the plate set c.1.2mm in from the edge and patches that form a roughly square area around the rivet hole at the centre of the circular zone. All of the areas of gilt are slightly upstanding from the rest of the buckle plate's surface. One would expect gilt to wear off of raised areas and be preserved in negative areas (areas that lay below the artefacts main surface plane such as grooves and dimples). Although it is possible that raised lines and zones were gilt and the rest of the surface was left bare, and these raised areas have avoided wear, this deserves further consideration. Areas of surviving gilt on raised areas only, have been observed on other artefacts. One suggestion that has been put forward is that these areas of surviving gilt were originally negative surface areas, the only areas where the gilt had not worn off. Later as the artefact starts to suffer surface deterioration and decay, the presence of gilt protects the artefact in the areas where the gilt remains and the negative areas eventually stand proud of the original artefact surface. If this is the case with this particular buckle the plate would have been decorated with a thin grooved border set c.1.2mm in from the edge rather than a thin raised line. The roughly square area of gilt might be the result of the surface in the area surrounding the rivet hole having been covered by a rivet rove and thus having been protected from surface wear.The buckle and integral plate have a curved profile, incomplete length of 67.0mm and weight of 7.68g. The plate has a thickness of 2.8mm between the pin hole and first rivet hole and a thickness of 2.2mm at the circular zone. The plate has a sub-rectangular cross-section with flat upper and lower surfaces and rounded edges.See Egan, G. & Pritchard, F. Dress Accessories 1150-1450. 1991 & 2002. fig.48, p.78-79, no.320-321 as well as the example shown from the Ashmolean Museum, accession no.410.1981, which is a very similar example to the buckle recorded here. Also see Whitehead, R. Buckles 1250-1800 Greenlight Publishing 2003, p.32-33, nos.176-185. This type of buckle seems to have been in use c.AD1230-1400. It has been suggested that these curved profile buckles with integral plates possibly had a highly specialised function (Egan, G. p.78). Whitehead suggests that the hooks on the ends of this type of buckle plate indicate their use as spur buckles (Whitehead, R. p.32).