Silver clothes pin in the shape of a triangle
Europeana Fashion — National Museum of World Cultures Foundation

Silver clothes pin in the shape of a triangle

Unknown artist

Fashion Illustration
CC0 — Public Domain
Europeana Fashion — National Museum of World Cultures Foundation

Dressing pin (fibula 'tizerzai') in the shape of a triangle. This silver pin is part of a pair of clothing pins (with 2438-89b) that were linked by a long chain from ring to ring (point to point). The chain, however, is missing. Because of the fine holes, these clothes pins are called 'tizerzai n'taouka': clothes pins with wormholes. This genre of clothes pins (with worm holes) is typical of the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas regions. The dress pins from these regions are distinguished from others by their refined finished sides and the subtle execution of filigree and enamel techniques (Grammet, 1998). These fibulae are from the Western Anti-Atlas.According to some researchers and literature, the triangular shape of the pin is said to refer to a primal form and is interpreted as a reference to female fertility. According to others, the triangular shape of the pin refers to an ancient cult in North Africa, namely the cult of the ram (Izemer in Berber). According to some scientists, this cult goes back to the worship of the god Amon in ancient Egypt. The temple of Amon was located in the Egyptian oasis Siwa, which was inhabited by Berbers. The ram was a symbol of physical strength, virility and an active life (Haddadou, 1993, p.172). Apart from jewellery, the triangle motif is used in Berber architecture, such as in wooden capitals (Flint, 1973, p.11)‖ Dress pins (fibulae) have both a utilitarian and decorative function. They are used by Berber women to tie the wrapping cloth. An elongated piece of cloth is wrapped around the body and attached to the breasts with clothes pins in such a way that the arms remain free. The clothes pins are therefore always worn in pairs, with the two pins connected by a chain. The closing ring of the clothes pin is first tilted forward, then the pin is inserted through the 2 layers of fabric; the closing ring is tilted upwards and fastened behind the pin with a twisting movement. The necklace, called sinselt or asherrab in Berber, serves to hold the clothing pins together, but also as a chest decoration. It can be simple or decorated in the middle with a large egg-shaped sphere (tagmout, Berber) or a large amulet, usually decorated with enamel work. Clothes pins can take different shapes depending on the region: triangular, round, or a triangle with ram's horns on the sides referring to the ram as a bearer of fertility.‖ The tradition in Morocco is that jewelry was passed down from generation to generation, from mother to daughter. The future bride was almost always given a pair of fibula as part of her trousseau. Apart from their utility and decorative function, these ornaments served another, economical, purpose. They were kept to be sold or exchanged in situations of financial distress. Jewellery also has a communicative value and can convey certain messages. For example, a piece of jewellery is a sign of love. A woman who wears a fibula, bracelet, necklace, earring or a khamsa (hand) made of silver, shows her connection with her traditions and origin. Fibulae and khamsa (hands) are among the pieces of jewellery to which women attached special value. These pieces of jewellery often have a magical meaning. Today, the triangular shaped fibula in particular is used as a symbol of Berber identity (info 2004). The emblem of the triangular shaped fibula can be found in various expressions of art and culture and during manifestations.This silver pin is richly decorated and ajouréed with rosettes in the middle and at the three corners. The rosette in the center is decorated with red enamel. The small rosette-shaped increases in the three corners are not enamelled. The base of this pin is made by filling a triangular frame with fine hand formed tubes that are connected by a solder braid. By heating the whole to almost melting temperature, the whole binds together. This whole is sawn into two halves and one gets two identical clothes pins. At the bottom point of the triangle is a hinged eye. The start of the pin and the pin itself are decorated with geometric engraved motifs. The geometric motifs and shapes are engraved on a wooden anvil using a hammer and burin. The excavated areas are then filled with a black fabric. This fabric is made from resin from the juniper tree (taqqa). The resin melts by heating and is poured over the band, which is also heated and even hotter. The resin fills in the reliefs and after cooling, the excess resin is ground away with a file. Finally, the pin is polished so that the contrast of the shiny white silver against the brown-black filling is clearly visible.

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