Trousers (part of ensemble)

Ontwerper: Hanae Mori (Yoshika 1926) · 1966

Pants from an ensemble. Mori used two types of textile that she printed with the same pattern, creating a layered and playful shadow effect that gives the impression of three-dimensionality. The stylised flowers and asymmetric use of colour are typical of Mori. A similar outfit is also in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum: http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/158887. The shawl that is present in MET is missing in this example. \This ensemble was purchased in the USA, made in Japan.\Hanae Mori is one of the most important Japanese fashion designers of the 20th century. She was the first Asian couturier to be admitted to the prestigious La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (1977). Her designs can be found in many museum collections, including the Metropolitan Museum, Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology (New York), Fashion Museum Hasselt, Iwami Art Museum (Japan), Museo del Traje (Madrid). Her work has received awards such as the Neiman Marcus Award (US), Asahi Prize (Japan), Medal of Honor with Purple Ribbon (Japan), Order of Culture Award (Japan) and Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur (France). Therefore, this ensemble is prêt-a-porter, but possibly customized. \Hanae Mori is known for the extraordinary way she combined Japanese and Western designs, techniques and materials into unique designs. Her work demonstrates a strong drive for innovation, extraordinary craftsmanship and the courage to transcend boundaries, whether cultural, geographical or disciplinary. \Hanae Mori opened her first studio in 1951 in Tokyo, from where she began a successful career as a costume designer for films. She created costumes for over 500 films, her clients being the leading Japanese filmmakers of the time, such as Yasujiro Ozu, Kurosawa and Kozaburo Yoshimura. During this time as a costume designer, she developed a keen sense of color, material and the dramatic effect of clothing design. \Her interest in Western fashion was sparked by her American clientele. During a trip to Paris in 1961, Mori visited major French fashion houses such as Dior, Cardin and Givenchy. She was most impressed by Chanel, whose haute couture established a strong, independent image of women and inspired Mori to further perfect her craft. \In 1965 Mori left for the US, where she created a furore with the collection 'East meets West'. A characteristic of this collection was the fusion of Japanese motifs and silhouettes with Western cutting and sewing techniques. The collection was a huge success and formed the basis of Mori's cross-cultural approach to fashion, which not only produced a new aesthetic but also challenged the clichéd images surrounding the Orient and Japanese women. Hanae Mori can be considered a pioneer in establishing a dialogue between Western and Japanese (beauty) ideals in fashion.